Years ago(like 2009), an award-winning barista visited our roastery. He came to see the first Loring Roaster in the UK(and EU) and randomly asked why. Why should we exist in business when there are Square Mile and Origin? I pondered on this question (10 years in), and a few years later, he opened a roastery, along with another 800 others in the UK alone. Don’t worry, I am not about say anything edgy here. I am going somewhere…
Coffees like this and the SL28 and many other random gems from small producers are the Why! It took me a long time to realise. Coffees that I want to share because of their uniqueness and character.
Farmer: Alejo Castro
Farm Volcan Azul
Area: Alajuela, Costa Rica.
Established: 1850, 5th-generation farm.
Hectares: 55
Altitude: 1540-1720 Meters above sea level
Varietals: Geisha and Typica
Process: Red Honey + Warm Anaerobic
If you have endured my coffee waffle over the years, you may understand how few geishas we have sold and how sceptical I can be on the subject. The value of this coffee is not sitting in Panama or the US, but between a small family farm in Costa Rica and us here in the UK.
Volcan Azul is a 5th-generation farm, producing many different single varietals and processes. The long game is the aim of quality, which we especially like at James Gourmet. The whole process is controlled by the farm and the operation is relatively small. These are all things that work for us. Coffee on a human scale with a history.
In a cupping bowl:
Aromatics: White winey
Body: Medium- creamy on cooling
Acidity: Champagne|
Writing this in a way that stops you running for the hills, as the word “Winey” is inserted! I’ve used it now! For me, this coffee starts off bright and winey with a top-end acidity (Variety, chaps, is the spice of life), cocoa, and a creamy body. Once the face-melting heat drops, the acidity eases a little. The finish is dry, making this a little like drinking warm (brown-coffee) champagne. In my little world, this is a refined cup of balance and juice.
Espresso Recipe
I don’t know if I want to. The body is there, the acidity is perfect for a standout filter. Does everything have to go in an espresso machineI am going to think about this and maybe add it later!
