Here we have our second interesting process coffee from Neel this season. This was my favourite of Neel’s unusual, experimental processes this year, apart from the single bag of spice process that “got lost”, but we are not going to talk about that!. In a recent email exchange, I reminded Neel about a comment he made to me mid-pandemic-lockdown, when we were trying to understand how to approach a coffee. In (what felt like) an exhausted teacher-like tone, he said something to the effect of ” all you have to do is roast it!”. Suddenly It hit me. Boy, do we ask a lot of our producers as an industry? It was a case of what entitlement do we have? Big questions that will eventually make it to the blog.
Farm: Edelweiss Estate.
Farmer: Neel and Kavita Vohora
Area: Arusha Northern Tanzania
Process: “Fruit and Spice” Experimental Triple fermentation, anaerobic and sundried.
Fermentations 1: Pineapple and banana
2. Cardomom and berries
3. Cinnamon and raisin.
Anaerobically fermented in parchment for 3 days and then fast sun drying.
Varietals: Bourbon, SL28, and Kent.
Altitude: 1620-1850 Meters above sea level
|Aromatics: Autumnal Hedgerow Berrys | Body: Light| Acidity: Red berrys|
On opening, if all of our ducks are in a row, this should be an explosion of red berries (oddly including elder) and rich tannins. The list of potential flavours is broad. As the temperature starts to drop, the acidity builds to a tart raspberry, winey acidity with a lingering spice.
In the next stage of cooling, everything simplifies. The tannins ease and the fruits soften and merge with long lingering cocoa and you might even get a hint of almonds in there too.
Roast: A medium-to-developed filter, not in a standard way.
Filter: This is as relevant as your water quality and burrs. We have been working on 60g a litre and upwards for filter
More is more here actually! That’s unusual for me. I have enjoyed this with big throws, still with a 1:2 so 17g-19g in and 34g out in 28-35 seconds. For espresso which is, of course, the apex, the whole point of the ceremony I have still been stretching it out into 45-50g and it is deep and complex and thoroughly enjoyable.
Edelweiss estate is based on the slopes of the Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest unbroken caldera (crater), a UNESCO world heritage site, and the haven for scores of wildlife including elephants, rhino, lions, and numerous antelope. The same family has held stewardship over the beautiful farms (of Finagro) for 3 generations. A mixture of an exceptional terroir, climate, and good farming practices have driven the farms to produce consistently exceptional coffees that are sustainable in production and in our environmental and social impact. Edelweiss provides sustainable and consistent employment for more than 500 members of the community all whilst living in harmony with the abundant wildlife found through the farms.